I recently found myself with a few hours to spare. It doesn’t happen often, and when it does, I usually don’t have enough energy to surf for long. The Irony of it. Move to St Francis to surf more, get more involved in work and projects, and have less and less time to surf. When the time finally does present itself, you’re too unfit from all that work and can’t utilise the time.

But the water was so warm, and the crowd was minimal, and before I knew it, I had surfed for three straight hours and felt fine. That was until I poured myself a few fingers of whiskey that evening and sunk into the couch to watch some Severance.

After my drink was exhausted, I tried to get up from the couch for a refill, and there was no way I would make it off the couch. Exhausted muscles, sore shoulders, worn-out core and general lethargy meant that I needed a hand up or a refill by someone else. I got a hand up.

It’s the end of the world as you know it when you can’t get off the couch, and I felt fine.

So, what happened to me during that session? Why was I so tired yet so happy? Drugs. The answer is drugs.

Endorphin Rush: The Natural High

Surfing is a full-body workout, and all that effort triggers the release of endorphins—your body’s built-in dope. The release of these drugs help reduce stress, ease soreness, and leave you feeling calm and content. It’s the same reason runners talk about a “runner’s high”—except you’ve been riding waves instead of pounding pavement.

Dopamine Hit: The Stoke Factor

Hooking into a nugget of a wave, even just one, sends a burst of dopamine through your system. This “feel-good” narcotic rewards your brain, reinforcing the experience and making you want to do it all over again. That’s why, even after an exhausting session, you’re already thinking about the next one and more legal drugs and physical effects.

Muscle Fatigue: The Best Kind of Tired

After hours of paddling, duck-diving, and trying your best to balance, your muscles are fully tweaked. This deep fatigue isn’t just about being tired – it’s the kind that leaves your body feeling loose and relaxed. Like a long workout followed by a toke and some codeine, your body shifts into recovery mode, letting everything unwind.

Hunger and Replenishment: Everything Tastes Better

Three hours of surfing burns a shit-ton of energy, and your body knows it. Post-surf meals hit differently—whether it’s a smoothie, a beer, or a plate of something hearty, your body is craving exactly what it needs to recover. Carbs, protein, and hydration never feel more satisfying. Even a highball finds the spot.

After a long session, your body goes through a cycle of effort, reward, and recovery. The combination of the legal drugs and physical effects – the physical exhaustion, chemical release, and mental satisfaction makes surfing feel so good—even when you’re completely broken.

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