The waves were perfect yesterday – a spinning little right-hander peeling off a shipwreck in Nusa Lembongan. There were, unfortunately, not enough waves for everyone, and the situation got a little tense at times, with many people scratching for the same wave.
After having my best wave ruined by some guy who didn’t know the Basic Rules Of Surfing, I was more than a little peeved. I was contemplating telling him what I thought about his lack of style and class, obviously shoddy upbringing, bad hair and deplorable manners when I surprisingly bumped into an old friend right there in the water.
I spent many formative years surfing with Davey but lost contact when I left Cape Town in the early ’90s and only really went back to the Cape a little over the years, let alone our old Muizenberg stomping grounds.
Yet there he was in the water at a little reef pass in Nusa Lembongan, and I just happened to bump into him right when I was full of anger about some idiot I had never met before.
Nice reality check to stop me in my tracks and realise that there was much more to the morning, the surf and this big jol called life than to go and admonish a stranger for some mild indiscretion that he might not even be aware of.
I decided to call it quits, picking my way along the reef and the seaweed farms to alight on the beach, where my family was waiting.
That evening after a lovely local dinner, I bumped into Davey again, and we chatted about the surf and laughed about the incident. He had witnessed the indiscretion, and we got into deep reminiscing about our surfing youth in Muizenberg and big sets and old friends.
No real point to the story, no massive kicker that points out some deep fundamental theory of how we should be living our lives, we should be less angry, or how we shouldn’t be so judgemental or whatever. If you want to read about that sort of stuff, I would thoroughly recommend this guy https://eckharttolle.com/
No, this editorial is more about how small our world is. For us to meet 10,000 kilometres from Muizenberg, in a relatively obscure little reef pass in Indonesia, in August of 2023 is random, but really cool.
Enjoy your day.
More here –
Part 1 – Checking In From Nusa Lembongan